FAQs

1. When is the best time to schedule my pool opening?
A: We schedule openings on a first come, first serve basis. You can call our office anytime to schedule a date. Generally, our spring / opening brochures and agreements are mailed around Valentine’s Day. By the end of February the most desirable days are booked solid. 
If you want to open your pool on the earlier side but are concerned about conserving energy and the cost of heating, run the filter on an abbreviated schedule and don’t run the heater unless you plan to go in that day or the following day.

2. Is there anything I can do to prevent my pool from opening “green” or “black”?

A: Testing the water chemistry at the season closing of your pool and making sure the water is properly balanced will go a long way in keeping the water clear for the opening. If your pool is closed for more than 5 months, a chemical boost midwinter is a good idea. Pull the cover back in the deep end, test the water and add the necessary portions. Remember to circulate the water with a submersible pump for proper disbursements of the chemicals. A small amount of chemicals applied one time midwinter could save you money and time at the pool opening.

3. What are some suggestions for saving money when it comes to my pool?

  • Make sure that your pool water is at the proper level for closing. If your pool is being closed professionally, already ensuring your water is at the proper level will avoid the labor cost of a crew standing around while they lower the water. If you have a tile line, the water level should be drained to below the tile line, since surface water will freeze and expansion could cause tiles to crack. You should not have to drain your pool below the skimmers.
  • If you are closing the pool yourself make sure to seal the pool cover edges to prevent debris from entering the pool. If you are using water tubes, fill them to only about 85% capacity and seal them tightly. Do not overfill tubes – allow enough slack in the tube for the water inside to expand when it freezes. If tubes are leaking, replace them and don’t try to repair them.
  • Do not use a floater that contains a strong oxidizer (chlorine or bromine), and do not throw chlorine or bromine tablets into the pool. A floater can stick to the pool wall and stain or bleach the liner. Tablets can also sink to the bottom and damage your pool’s surface.


4. Should I cover my equipment for the winter?

A: It is recommended that only the heater be covered. If you plan on covering the heater, use only a recommended custom heater cover that will allow the air to breath and prevent condensation. Do not use a standard tarp - this will create condensation which has an extremely low pH and will cause rust, corrosion, and damage to equipment.


5. Why do I get a water puddle in the middle of my winter cover?

A: If your cover is solid, water will accumulate on top. It is a good idea to keep up to 1 inch of water on the cover at all times. However, more than 1 inch will cause the middle of the cover to sag and may stretch the material. If your cover is a mesh material, water will drain into the pool, causing the pool water level to rise. Keep a submersible pump under the cover approximately on the top step. By keeping the water level at that point you can avoid a water puddle in the middle of the cover. With a pool and spa combination, water can collect over the pool and over the spa. To avoid a puddle over the spa, place something under the cover to create a dome effect on top of the cover, usually called a spa ball or spa pillow. This will force the water to run off and prevent water accumulation over the spa.

 
For more information about Gorlin Pools & Spas, call 732-323-8200, email or contact us here.